Rising sharply from the sea, the banded pink-and-white cliffs here are home to wild thunderberries that cling to every ledge and crevice — the very ones Pufflebacks come to feast on, floating lazily along the cliff face in search of a ripe cluster. The wind never quite stops blowing through this stretch of coast, carrying the salt spray high above the crashing waves below, and gulls circle endlessly on the updrafts.